News you can use
Remember, I do this to entertain me, not you.
Uncle Pays the Bills
 |
|
Find Local
|
Categories
- ATF (769)
- Death Match (10)
- Eminent Domain (225)
- In the bag (9)
- Notes to Junior (546)
- Poker (74)
- Recipes (142)
- Shotgun Noob (11)
- The Airing of Grievances (19)
- uncategorized (47,725)
February 20th, 2017 at 10:06 pm
Just use a well-shielded box; there is nothing magical about a connection to earth ground and the typical eight-foot-if-nobody-cheated household ground ground ain’t much — the dinky #10 wire he suggests might as well be a fuse in any energetic event.
All you need to do is establish a unipotential surface around the protected equipment. You don’t care what that potential might be at any given moment, no more than a bird on a high-tension line. Scrub the paint off the mating surfaces of an ammo can; wrap it in a layer of heavy aluminum foil, well crimped at the corners, if you still feel worried. Stock a hacksaw or three — bad connections may flash over and weld.
You do not want the protected equipment to be in the path an incoming transient will seek — typically from outside connections like power drops, telephone lines and antennas to ground, probably via your breaker box, power meter base and/or plumbing. Note that your power meter base is where the home ground rod is supposed connect: if something big comes down the line, that thing is supposed to fail catastrophically, protecting your house and popping the line fuses back at the pole.
February 21st, 2017 at 6:39 am
The gold standard in grounding is large gauge braided copper grounding cable immersed in several hundred feet of neutral ph (or nearly neutral) well water. More cables, and more wells, is more betterer so any noise on the ground(s) doesn’t propagate through junctions.