A revolver’s hand and bolt are as delicate as anything you’ll find in an automatic, and they are critical to the gun functioning properly. The stupid transfer bar, too. (Not to be confused with the S&W hammer block). Most people know that.
But reading the article, it seems to me that those guys worked their guns hard in competition and neglected inspection and maintenance. Not that the guns were inherently deficient.
Well crap…Frostproof is a rural almost-there burg just 20 miles up the road from me, and Garcia’s a known quantity around here, but I wasn’t aware his place attracted luminaries like these dudes…and Mas!
That’s cool and all, but if they ever arrange a demo day with Miculek? Well they’ll have to get better armed guards than those race-gun guys to keep me outta there.
The difference in failure modes is that revolvers usually require tools to remedy the problem. That tool may be as simple as a knife blade, but none of the fixes are going to be quick, and most are not feasible on a two-way shooting range.
The reality is that if a revolver stops functioning in a time of need, you had best be going for a replacement weapon, or beating feet.
Let’s see, I’ve had at least two hands break, a hammer cam or two rub off, and hand springs and bolt springs break. That’s all I can think of right now, unless we get into the subject of sights. The factory front sight on my brand new a Ruger Single Six (“legacy quality” right?) shot loose after less than 100 rounds, causing wildly dispersed shot placement.
Then there’s fit and finish. Some of my revolvers (good ole wood and steel, Bro) will easily draw blood if you don’t handle them just so. None of my plastic fantastics have sharp burrs and flashings like that, although the G20SF trigger will leave you with a sore finger after only 50 rounds or so.
It’s not really about your equipment anyway. We think it is because of generations of good marketing. Rather it’s about what you do, and don’t do, with what you have.